Independent watchmaker making waves in the conservative Swiss watch industry

By Ishan Raghava - December 1, 2020
In this issue, we take a look at an independent watchmaker making waves in the conservative Swiss watch industry, as well as a couple of classic designs getting a new lease of life.

H. Moser & Cie Center Seconds Funky Blue
H. Moser has been known to be brand that loves to produce stunning pieces that often shake up the establishment and question the conservativeness of the Swiss watch industry. However, the Funky Blue dial Center Seconds is not one of them. This watch is clearly inspired by 1920’s aviation watches and features some classic touches, like the round dial, paired with oversized numeral appliques and even an onion shaped crown for easy operation when wearing gloves. The oversized numerals are made of a new material called Globolight, which can be moulded into various shapes and has great luminosity at night. The highlight of the watch for me, though, are the sword shaped hands and the combination of the sunburst blue dial with the large numeral appliques. Combine this with a 42mm size and a simple elegance without too many functions, and I have to say that it’s a classically stunning looking timepiece. 

TAG Heuer Carrera 160

TAG Heuer Carrera 160 
Years Silver Limited Edition

Celebrating the 160th anniversary of the eponymous Swiss brand, the new Carrera is actually heavily based on the original Carrera that was first launched in 1964 by Jack Heuer. Named after the famous and dangerous ‘Carrera Panamericana’ road race, the monochrome silver dial version of the Carrera has been regarded as a classic and is very sought after by collectors. This version gets modern updates, but largely maintains the design theme of the original, with the only major change being a slightly larger case size – from 36mm to 39mm – and the change of the permanent second sub-dial to 6’o clock from 9’o clock. Powered by a Heuer 02 movement, the Carrera has a power reserve of 80 hours and has been launched in a limited edition of 1,860 pieces – a nod to Heuer’s founding year of 1860. 

Zenith DEFY 21 Land Rover Edition

Zenith DEFY 21 
Land Rover Edition

Designed to celebrate the re-birth of an icon, the latest piece from Zenith is a collaboration with Land Rover for the launch of the new Defender. Keeping in mind the rough-and-tumble image of the Defender, the DEFY 21 is a reworked version of the El Primero Chronograph, in a resilient and rugged package. The case, for instance, has been micro-blasted in Titanium to give it a matt finish that absorbs light for better legibility and to show off its craftsmanship, with the grey dial featuring a small number of coloured touches to highlight the functions of the watch. And, for the first time, in a DEFY 21, it even features a linear power reserve window. Production of the Land Rover edition DEFY 21 is limited to 250 units.  

H Moser Cie Streamliner

H. Moser & Cie Streamliner 
Flyback Chronograph 

A true design masterpiece in many senses, the latest product line from H. Moser & Cie is also named rather aptly – the Streamliner – a tribute to the aerodynamic trains of the ‘20s and ‘30s that revolutionized public transport. The first thing that strikes you when you look at the Streamliner is how simple it looks for a chronograph. There are no sub-dials and the minimalistic look is designed to draw attention to the unique dial, which is a brand trademark – the fumé dial in a unique shade of anthracite grey. In fact, this is the world’s first chronograph with a central display to feature a flyback function for the minutes and seconds. And lastly, there is a stunning metal strap, which is a key part of the design of the Streamliner. Incredibly complex to manufacture and finished contrastingly in both brushed and shiny surfaces, this makes the Streamliner one of the most stunning chronographs I’ve ever seen. 

  • Tags
  • H. Moser & Cie
  • Carrera Heuer
  • Zenith